Petra Jordan

Jordan’s ancient pink city of Petra carved out of dusky sandstone rocks is simply a joy to behold. There is nothing quite like it, and nothing really prepares you for it. The only way to understand Jordan’s most valuable natural treasure is to go there and see it for yourself.

The city’s imposing facades featuring large columns, tombs, carved figures and square blocks cut into the rocks in 6th Century BC by the Nabataean Arab people, takes away the breath of even hardened travellers. Set on the edge of Wadi Araba, the 264-square kilometre designated “archaeological park” of rugged sandstone cliffs changes moods depending on the time of day. The rocks range in colour from red to orange to pink to golden hues with slashes of white, grey and black randomly interspersed.

Linking the outside world to Petra is the As-Siq, a 1.2 kilometre long narrow sandstone gorge through which horse-drawn carriage drivers speed through at a thunderous rate, while their tourist cargo wince as the cliffs on either side of the gorge loom some 80m above them. Walkers are surprisingly unscathed here, and have the benefit of slowly savouring the moment when the incredible Al-Khazneh – The Treasury - reveals itself at the end of a bend in the Al-Siq.

Feeling like Harrison Ford, the broad brimmed hat on my head possibly being the only resemblance, we simply gaped at the massive façade of The Treasury, one of the most elaborate buildings in the ancient city. Its classical Roman influenced architecture featured in the 1989 movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade as the exterior of the Holy Temple where the Holy Grail was located. Carved out of the rose-pink rock face in the early 1st century for a Nabataean king’s tomb it dwarfs all, standing at 30m wide and 43m high. Today of course, the shrewd curio sellers touting for business know Harrison Ford as an old mate – some even have his hat, and guess what – it’s for sale. If you believe that, you believe anything.

Supporting Jordan’s jewel are the warm, welcoming inhabitants that live, work and play in the ancient city itself as well as those living in the town of Wadi Musa at the entrance to Al-Siq. Wadi Musa’s 35,000 residents have a fierce pride in Petra in particular and Jordan in general. “Welcome to Jordan” is the most common greeting. Surprisingly this top tourist destination and UNESCO World Heritage Site still hasn’t been spoiled by the indifference of mass tourism where mediocre cuisine and bad service are accepted simply because if you don’t like it, there will be hundreds of others who will fill your place.

The crazy mix of people all have a story to tell, and if you take the time to listen and not be worn down by the constant touting for business you will discover the real Jordan.

There are the carefree, alarmingly handsome Bedouin horsemen that carry weary tourists into and out of the ancient city, dramatically scooping up stragglers with gusto and great humour. That’s the thing about the Bedouin, who have been living in caves surrounding Petra for more than a millennium – they are good humoured rather than annoying provided you too play the game - haggle hard, keep your sense of humour and laugh with them.

“Taxi?” asked the 20-something Bedouin Ameer as he steered his donkey Jack, picking its skinny legs delicately over the crumbling sandstone pebbles. “Air conditioned!” he added, white teeth flashing in a brown face. By the time visitors have walked through Petra’s tomb fronted Street of Facades, past the still utilised 6,000 seat Roman theatre and climbed the 900 steps cut into the rocks leading to the Monastery and back down again, they are grateful for the use of a donkey’s back.

The donkey “taxi” owners have their designated patch in which to operate a business and go no further lest they incur the wrath of another Beduin also trying to make a living. Ameer was born in and still lives in the caves, scorning the new village of neat flat roofed concrete houses with running water and electricity which glistened in the distance, built by the government for the residents of Petra. “My ancestors lived here forever – so too do I,” he said defiantly.

While their constant jostling for business can be annoying some have to be admired for their unique selling points. There’s an old toothless man behind a tiny stall packed with trinkets within the Street of Facades who offers tourists “genuine” ancient Nabataean bones. “Here!” he thrusts out his hand excitedly, as if discovering it for the first time. “This is a genuine 6,000 year old finger bone!” Talking to him reveals a hard life in the ancient city, yet a refusal to move into the government housing and a deep love of Petra.

An undeniably strict tour guide, who had such eloquent English he must have been schooled in Oxford, took us on a scheduled candle-light night tour of the ancient city. He demanded – and received - total silence from the 300 visitors who came to hear him speak about Petra’s magic. We walked from Wadi Musa down the As-Siq gorge to the candle-strewn clearing in front of The Treasury. It was eerie, but enchanting to be among those 300 walking in the dark in silence, the crunching of gravel and swishing of clothing against legs being the only sounds heard apart from one or two rebellious coughs or nervous laughs.


Other tour guides based in Wadi Musa are less fierce - including Aiman Al Hassanat who organises trips further afield to Wadi Rum and Aquaba, even offering tailor made bicycle tours within the region. Mohammad Asri Hamadeen – so knowledgeable about his desert he can drive through it at night without headlights – takes guests to Wadi Rum where remnants of the film set of the original Lawrence of Arabia pierce dramatically into the sky. Asri is deeply passionate about Wadi Rum, its weather-etched rock formations and sweeping landscapes of red sand turning into yellow turning into black.

The carefree horsemen too, like Abraham Naoflh, are happiest when leading seven-day horseback safaris into this desert, delighting all who take part with their desert knowledge sprinkled with charm and mischievous humour.

The town’s hotel managers and staff from the modest three-star Petra Inn to the five-star Taybet Zaman aim to please and make every guest feel welcome. Palestinian Ibrahim Samhouri, owner of the Sandstone Restaurant set among the many open air cafes along Wadi Musa’s main road can arrange “whatever you like”. His excellent food including a specialty dish of “camel lamb” is served with style and a smile. “As you like” and “It’s up to you” are also favourite sayings, because basically it’s your decision what you want to do – the rest can be arranged.

Without its supporting cast, Petra would still be magnificent – but soulless.